Why are you in Serbia?

As an American who lives in Serbia, I get this question every day.  Recently, I met the owner of Kompas Brewery, Jason, in Belgrade.  He’s also from the USA, so he, undoubtably, hears this question often.

My answer: I came here for Serbia’s craft beer, and found love.  His answer: He came here for love, and found craft beer.  His craft beer brewery, Kompas Pivara, celebrated its first birthday in February 2018.

Birthday At Kompas Pivara, Serbia’s American Craft Brewery

Kompas Pivara is in Kumodraz, an industrial area in the south of Belgrade.  The brewery has been in operation in Serbia since 2017.  But they hadn’t opened up their connecting brewpub until early 2018.

Jason had been happy to keep a low profile, avoiding distribution and outside sales until he debuted his beer on tap at the big Belgrade Beer Fest.  Consequently, when my friends and I visited Kompas Pivara during the past year, we were often the only ones there for the entire evening.

But, on Kompas Pivara’s first birthday, when I entered the brewpub on a Friday night in February at 8pm, it was a different story.  While I was going to the brewery, Jason messaged me:

“We’re already full, and still turning away reservations.  Grab some food, if there’s any left.”

Inside, there were no seats available. My friend and I propped ourselves up at an open corner of the bar, and waited.

Previously, the two girl bartenders who worked there were always dressed casually.  Tonight, they wore tight matching button-up shirts and pants with coordinated suspenders.  Their smiles looked forced, as they were constantly running to and from the bar with trays of beer.  When I went to order, I heard one say to the other (in Serbian), “We ran out of glasses.”

Jason was dressed causally, but was equally busy.  Between serving drinks, he fielded questions about the brewery and the brewing process.  I found a little time to catch him by the bar to congratulate him for the birthday.

And also to ask for a beer, since the girls were gone.

Appropriately, Kompas is the only brewery in Serbia which makes an original American beer style, the California Common, or steam beer. The beer’s origins from the miners who moved to California are debatable.  But what’s certain is the beer always raise questions from Serbian beer geeks.  Many know about Anchor Steam Brewery.  But beyond that: is their beer a lager, an ale, why American, why California?

Kompas Pivara is the only brewery in Serbia which makes an original American beer style, the California Common.

In Serbia A Not So Common California Common

Naturally, I had their California Common, and then an IPA.  But that wasn’t why I was here tonight.

Tonight I want something new, Kompas Brewery’s first Russian Imperial Stout, the Babaroga.  It was out at the bar, so Jason went back in the brewery to pour glasses straight from the tank.  At first, it poured thick, and the alcohol was prominent up front.

I let the beer warm up a little.  Soon, the Barbaroga’s heavy alcohol gave way to light chocolate, coffee and leather.  The flavor wasn’t as strong I as expected for the style.  But the 8.4% ABV was barely noticeable, and the big beer went down smoothly.  After the California Common, it sat well.

A year ago, Kompas Pivara was quiet and unknown.  Now, they have distribution around Serbia.  So if you can’t make it to Kumodraz, on the outskirts of Belgrade, you can usually find Kompas Pivo in a supermarket.

But if you do make the time to travel to Kompas Pivara, it’s worth the visit…especially if you’re an American.

For a tour of the best craft beer bars and breweries in Belgrade click: here