Rijeka From Above: Trsat Castle, Church And College Bars
“There are legends about the 666 stairs that climb to Trsat Church. You’re getting closer to heaven, but it feels more like approaching hell.”
Outside the center, Rijeka’s two craft beer bars are The Beertija and Tvornica Piva Beer Factory. If you are in good shape, walk from Tito Square up a never-ending staircase which ends in front of Trsat Church.
Although the views from the stairs are impressive, I foolishly climbed them in 95 (37) degree heat. When I reached the summit, I was drenched in sweat. In summer, the smarter option is to start with a cold cocktail at Nemo Pub, then take a taxi or a bus from the nearby station.
Behind Trsat Church you will find the castle with the same name. After that, you walk down Slavka Krautzeka Street. This is Rijeka’s university district. The Beertija and Tvornica Piva are only five minutes from each other. Besides these craft beer bars, there are several other cheap, fun student bars along the street.
Rijeka’s The Beertija location has more craft beer to choose from than its sister Zagreb location. The staff was, at least that day, also quite entertaining. They played good classic rock and indie music, and the bartender’s story about climbing the stairs was true. In addition to Croatia’s usual craft beer, there was beer from Tap B, a brewery in nearby Split.
Maskeron Pivo At Tvornica Piva
Tvornica Piva is a hidden gem in Rijeka. Literally, the pub is hidden behind a large grove of trees off of the street. Be aware of the location. They have eight taps available, including their own beers. Their own beer, Hartera, was a classic European lager. It was malty, yet decent for a local craft beer.
Odlly, although I consider Tvornica Piva to be Rijeka’s best craft beer bar, no one else was drinking craft when I went. Even one month later, when I returned with the brewer of Brk Lee Brewery, it was the same. We were the only table drinking craft.
This second trip though, introduced me to one of Croatia’s best microbreweries. Boko and his friends brought me because there was a keg of Maskeron Brewery on tap .
Maskeron is from Dubrovnik and is known for big NEIPAs. Unfortunately, their production is limited, so you must keep your eye open for their releases as their kegs get tapped within the first day. Or look out for one of their collaborations. I was lucky to be in Rijeka when we finished that keg.
Whether you drink in craft or college bars on Slava Krautzeka Street, you will be rewarded with gorgeous views of the islands in Kvaner Bay below. The 666 stairs from heaven to hell are well worth the time spent here.
For a guide to the best craft beer bars in Rijeka click: here
