How Russians Changed Craft Beer in Serbia
In these past two years, over 350,000 Russians have moved to Serbia. The Russian invasion of Ukraine has driven this. Most of the Ukrainians relocated to the European Union. However, most of the Russians, on the other hand, had to go outside the European Union. Many chose Serbia.
As a result of this, in 2024, over 9,000 Russian businesses have been opened in Serbia. Many of these businesses are cafes and bars which have a distinctly different look and feel from Serbian institutions. They serve Russian cuisine, boutique coffee, and unique craft beers (also often Russian.)
Are these Russians in Serbia evil thuggish terrorists? Do they see me, as an American, as their enemy?
Nope. On the contrary, many of these Russians wave Ukrainian flags in Belgrade’s protests while wear My Little Kitty hats. Later, they go to bars for Dungeons ‘N’ Dragons tournaments, stand-up comedy shows and plenty of geeky craft beer.
Real Beer Geeks
In short, these Russians are nerds. And generally they are opposed to the war. Many of them are well-paid programmers who work online in IT, and they earn a salary which enables them to live comfortably in Serbia. A lot of their money goes into expensive craft beer. So it seems – since I’ve spent many a night myself drinking with them, plotting, scheming. Together – us Americans and Russians – we make great CIA and KGB spies.
(The KGB no longer exists. It’s called the FSB now.)
Where do these Russians get their craft beer? Some of these bars are easy to find; other like us spies, are hidden off the beaten path. Here are some institutions where you can go to experience a little bit of Moscow in Belgrade. Not all of these places are owned by Russians, but they all at least have Russians working with them in some capacity.
Russian Craft Bars & Brewpubs In Belgrade
1. Axiom Belgrade
Visnjiceva 2, Beograd
Three Russians, two Czechs and a Norwegian walk into a bar… Such began the story of Axiom Brewery in Prostejev, Czechia, in 2018. The brewery received many accolades and was successful even throughout the COVID pandemic and the Russian conflict in Ukraine.
In fact, the massive Russian migration to Serbia from the war no doubt influenced Axiom’s decision to open a franchise this year in the heart of Belgrade. Their 15 taps are not only from Axiom, but include several other Russian and Serbian craft breweries. Two of Russia’s big craft brewery’s, AF Brew and 4BREWERS, are available here.
2. Dva Medveda
Carice Milice 7, Beograd 11000
First, Dva Medveda was the first Russian-owned craft bar to open up in Belgrade after the war began. In following with Russian preference, they were one of Belgrade’s first non-smoking bars. Recently, they’ve added a 12 tap system to compliment their two refrigerators with over 50 beers.
In addition to craft beer, Dva Medveda is also a venue for small underground cultural events. They host stand-up comedy, acoustic concerts and book readings, all in Russian language.
3. Nekrasova The Bar
Kumanovska 6, Beograd 11100
At Nekrasova, there aren’t many craft beers available. But they do have the best selection of ciders in Belgrade, and its one of the few bars to offer cider on tap. Besides ciders, they offer various nastojka libations. Nastojka are unique Russian shots which infuse vodka into various homemade flavored juices. Have you ever had a a horseradish shot? Or a chili pepper shot?
Their handmade cocktails are top-notch. And they offer traditional snacks that pair well with the booze. Additionally, this is one of Belgrade’s openly LGBTQ+ bars.
4. Pravda Kafe
Palmotićeva 21, Beograd
Pravda has existed under different owners for many years in Belgrade. As the name implies, Pravda looks like a tribute to the former Soviet Union. Currently, it’s owned by a Russian, who has expanded its list of craft beers. In addition to Novi Sad brewery HOG’s great offers on tap, they also have their own house beers available. Their kitchen, and in particular their ribs, is excellent.
5. Sekirana Bar
Maršala Birjuzova 3, Beograd
Are you ready to stay out all night in Belgrade? Sekirana Bar will keep you drinking until the sunrise. Belgrade used to have many late night venues, but the COVID-19 pandemic put a stop to much of it. Yet this underground bunker bar, owned by a Russian and a Serb, is open until at least 3am every night. Also, if you want a fun drinking activity, this bar partners with an axe-throwing parlor, where drinking and axe-throwing is encouraged. (What could go wrong?… is their tagline.)
6. Bife Bar
Maršala Birjuzova 2-4, Beograd 11000
Bife Bar is hidden in plan sight, just one block from the main Republic Square. However it’s easy to miss (they brand themselves as a speakeasy.) You have to walk up three flights of stairs, then wind along to the end of a long balcony in one of Belgrade’s many block-style apartments.
Bife Bar is an echo back to the heyday of Belgrade nightlife in the 1990s, where every bar and club was hidden and the only way you could find a place was by word-of-mouth. Although their craft beer selection is small, they have many unique cocktails (and nastojka), including a Bloody Mary substituting Serbia’s national sauce, ajvar, for tomato juice. You can start here, then stumble down the stairs directly into Sekirana Bar.
7. Docker Brewery & Beer Garden
Žorža Klemansoa 27b, Beograd 11000
Cosmonaut Yuri is the head brewer of Docker Brewery. He has lived in Serbia for many years already, originally operating KORS Brewery by himself. Eventually, Docker Brewery bought KORS Brewery, but their craft beers and the names remain the same. They also work often with Serbia’s great Crow Brewery. Docker has 36 taps – the most in Serbia – so you can spend an entire day trying beers here.
Docker Brewery is also a great brewpub. They have a full kitchen with German and American- influenced dishes, like wurst and hamburgers. When the weather is warm, spend the day outside in the beer garden.
8. Beersheep Beer Store
Balkanska 21, Beograd
Although not owned by Russians, if you’re in Beersheep, you’d be hard-pressed to find someone who isn’t Russian here. It was in this institution where I, during several friendly beer-tastings, tried my first Russian and Ukrainian craft beers. Occasionally, one of their employees, a Russian who goes by the handle Richie Cunningham, will have his kombucha or homebrew available.
Beersheep operates strictly as a bottleshop, so there are no taps. But it has the largest selection of national and foreign craft beers available in all of Serbia. If you can’t find it at Beersheep, you won’t find it in Serbia.
