Has it been three years? That’s not possible. When I last visited Novi Sad, Serbia, it was same. The pandemic changed nothing. Or so I thought until I went out.
For the first time in two years, I took public transportation without a mask. In Belgrade, I stepped onto the Danube Prevoz bus, mask on. After looking around, I saw only half the riders wearing a mask, so I ripped mine off, and rode for the 90 minute trip to Novi Sad breathing easy. Again, in a taxi to my Airbnb, I took my mask off. The driver was wearing a mask. But he said nothing.
The Airbnb host is pacing fretfully in front of the property. My bus was delayed. I apologize, but he shrugs his shoulders and says, “This is Serbia. You made it.”
Craft Beer In Novi Sad: Speakeasy & Soulcity
First, I should revisit Novi Sad’s biggest brewery, 3Bir Brewery. A taxi from downtown Novi Sad to 3Bir is about 550 Dinar, considerably cheaper than a similar ride in Belgrade. Inside the brewery, I recognize the bartender from a show I played there a year ago, but he seems not to remember me. He says 3bir hasn’t had any bands since we played. Were we that bad?
“Money… COVID has not been good to anyone here.”
3Bir Brewery’s American-style cheeseburger, which is something increasingly common in The Balkans, is cooked well, but small. The 4 potato wedges on the side are even smaller, hardly worth mentioning.
Although the Three Hoppy Sisters on tap is good, I must have hop fatigue from tasting far too many green, raw bad IPAS in the region. A smooth Nitro-tapped Dry Irish Stout, Bloom, is more to my liking. Happily, I sip it, and order another.
For “desert,” I get a flight. Zbir Brewery is one of the few breweries in Serbia that offers beer flights. Four half-pours of your choosing is a great way to start, or finish, your brewery trip here.
Varia Craft & Beer Bar
Second, there’s a new craft beer bar that has opened since I last visited: