What’s A Serbian Craft Beer Tasting?
Can you host serious craft beer tastings in a country with a grand total of 33 craft breweries? Serbia’s passionate beer community sure can. Every tasting I’ve been to has a variety of craft beers from neighboring countries like Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia and Austria. But what really keeps tastings exciting are the homebrewers who are eager to share their new brews with this fast-growing scene.
First off, beer tastings are still not a common event here. When I first hosted one three years ago at Pivopija Zemun, I got a few strange looks.
“You just giving beer away for free?”
“Not exactly. If you want to join, you need to bring your own beer to share at the tasting. Don’t bring Jelen, LAV or other industrial crap. I’ll have craft beer from Sabaja Brewery in Kosovo!”
“Sta, brate? Kosovo je Srbija…”
Kosovo craft beer in Serbia got me more strange looks. Fortunately, the “family” of Pivopija’s staff consists of a Serbian-Russian, a Bosnian and a Slovenian – a little modern Yugoslavia. They know Balkan history is ridiculous and confusing, so it’s best to just laugh at it.
Such began the idea of Pivoslavija. Forget about our countries’ silly historical drama for the moment. Let’s all agree that we want to drink good beer.
Serbian Rye Homebrew and Hungarian Lager Crap
Pivopija started hosting tastings at their new location in New Belgrade with Zanatsko Pivo. Usually, Zanatsko Pivo provides all the beer from a local homebrewer or a foreign craft beer festival. The most recent tasting in August, however, was more akin to a typical American bottleshare. Several people brought their own bottles acquired from past trips abroad.
I came with a bomber of Tropical Rocket IPA from Matuska Pivovar in the Czech Republic (Czechia? Just, no). Zanatsko Pivo provided a homebrewed Rye IPA and a Hungarian Kolsch, Jomadar. Also, a girl brought one Italian Oyster Stout and two Belgium craft brews from a recent work trip. None of these beers are available in Serbia, so this much variety at one tasting is unusual.
First, Jomadar Hungarian Kosch was, at its most basic, watery, ale-but-really-lager crap. Anything after it would be better. The Rye IPA homebrew was notable for being the first Rye IPA homebrew I had tasted in Serbia. It was bitter enough to sate the hop tastes. Let’s hope the brewer continues brewing.
They also have a badass bottle design.
Czech Republic and Belgium Break with Beer Tradition
Matuska Pivovar has been a standout among many new Czech breweries that are breaking away from traditional Czech lagers and experimenting with American-style craft beers. I’ve had their Raptor and Apollo Galaxy on tap in the Czech Republic, and they were both excellent. Yet this Tropical Rocket IPA did not match up to those two beers. Perhaps it had been in the bottle too long.
The Belgium beers both came from Brussels Beer Project, which only opened in 2013, and states they “tap into co-creation and forget about the copy-pasting of the past”. It’s another sign of European brewers breaking with tradition. The Delta IPA was boring. On the contrast, their experimental Eternity Gose, brewed with cucumber and juniper gin, had a refreshing, crisp vegetable bite well-balanced by the yeast.
Now, Oyster Stout can be a tricky beer.
Anything from the sea is going to taste salty. Unless you’re making a Mexican michelada, you don’t want salt in a beer. Birra Del Borgo’s Perle AI Porce wasn’t bad, but the sharp metallic aftertaste, after a few so-so Belgium brews, was grating. Either we drink better, or I leave.
Fortunately, Pivopija had a few more surprises in store.
American Craft Beer Available in Serbia
When Serbs have a good time, they always find time for “jos jedno”. Probably, “jos jedno” is the most important phrase to learn in Serbian: ‘one more’. Pivopija’s staff brought out a massive Belgium bomber of Oud Goulde, which we polished off quickly.
Finally, thinking we were finished, I began planning my way home.
“Hey, American. You might have heard of these. On sale now,” Pivopija’s owner shouted. He cracked open two short, fat bottles with a bright green label. This import was new for them, but very familiar to me.
Sierra Nevada has made it to Serbia.
For a tour of the best craft beer bars in Belgrade click: here
